It was a grey Sunday in Sonoma and my husband and I were
driving south on Highway 12, my stomach was grumbling and I could not bear the
thought of more wine or frou-frou food. We were contemplating In-N-Out, but as
the smell of fire-grilled meat wafted through the window, we knew it would not
fill the void. A clean, brightly colored building on the left side of the road
caught my eye and in my rear-view mirror I read “Mexican Street Food,” and “Blue
Bottle Coffee”. I instantly perked up. My husband decided to make a crazy
u-turn to get to the parking lot. It was a smart move. Inside the restaurant, we saw that we were in El Molino
Central and were instantly drooling at the short but tantalizing menu.
EL Molino Central is a Sonoma expansion of Karen Waikiki’s Primavera
at the San Francisco Ferry building. People will stand on line for 40 minutes
for one of her outstanding tamales. El Molino focuses on fresh, top-quality ingredients
and authentic recipes. The flaky and moist fish tacos had a satisfying, crunchy
coating. My husband tried the Tacos El Pastor, which was topped with pineapple.
He loved the salty/sweet/spicy combo of the flavors.
As we were finishing our meal, the tall, blonde owner walked by and we
complemented her cooking. After chatting for a few minutes, she warmly invited
me into the kitchen to photograph their process. Many bowls, buckets and pots
of flavor dotted the counter tops as a dozen staff members buzzed around the small
kitchen. It was Mother’s Day, and she was kind enough to share one of her
specials, which turned out to be our favorite dish. It was a salmon
recipe adapted from Chef Daniel Boulud. The salmon is only cooked halfway and
then marinated with vinegar and citrus, topped with marinated vegetables. Delicious!
It was a wonderful treat that filled the void all the way home.
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